Posted in Family, Travel

La Lingua Franca

The Bayeux Tapestry, chronicling the English/N...
Image via Wikipedia

If my daughter ran the world, it would be a much simpler place.

“Why do people have different languages in other countries?” she asks as we drive past French roadside hoardings.

I explain that languages evolved before man developed the means or desire to travel abroad. Once we started travelling, I add,  we imported words from other languages. (I often worry whether my improved explanations are academically sound; I wonder how any parent can have the confidence to home-educate a child.)

I try to think of a few French words that migrated into English after the Norman Conquest.  Oh, “language” – that will be one of them (as in la langue Francaise) – and “conquest” (la conquete).  She doesn’t look convinced (or even convaincu).

Her skepticism is catching and I find myself looking out for bizarre examples of this alien lingo.  As we cycle round the city walls of Montreuil, I espy a poster advertising an event.  In large type, the name “BIGOT” stands out.  Riding shotgun after Laura, I don’t have time to check the details, but I am disappointed to realise that it can’t be a political poster.  It lacks the dreadful photo that seems indispensible in mainland European electioneering.

I’m always astonished that any politician is elected on the basis of these huge, insipid mugshots.  They’re usually posed against a bland studio backdrop, showing over-groomed and coiffed men and women smiling straight at the camera.  All the politicians look phoney.  This approach certainly wouldn’t work in Britain, where most MPs are elected in spite of their hairstyles rather than because of them.  I’m amazed that it works abroad.

Food advertising here seems to follow the same pattern.  We pass a giant poster displaying nothing but a tin of sweetcorn, the face of a woman looking vaguely startled, and the price.  It does not for a moment make me want to buy a tin of sweetcorn.  Yet presumably to the French shopper it is persuasive, as there are similar advertisements everywhere we go.

Driving in the camper van later that afternoon, we pass a shop under the name of “COFFIN”.  I’m not sure I’d want to take advantage of the sign inviting me to fill my house with its products – until I realise that it’s not an undertakers, but a furniture store.

Soon afterwards, our van’s cooking gas cylinder runs out.  Seeking a replacement, we spot one marked “MALICE” on the service station forecourt.  I do a double take.  Is this a special brand aimed at the terrorist market?  “Malice – le gaz ideal pour ceux qui preparent les bombes chez eux”?  Might be hard to get that one through customs on the way home.  (We settle instead for “Le Cube” – a square brand of cylinders, which seems rather a contradiction in terms).

Later, searching in one of the van’s cupboards for a spanner, I rediscover a handy translating gadget that Gordon has tucked away and forgotten about.  Laura is intrigued by the concept and he shows her how it works.  You input a word in one language and choose the language into which you’d like it translated.  Et voila!

But for Laura, two languages are not enough.  She inputs her own name in English, then translates it  into another language,  then translates the translation into a third language, and so on until she runs out of languages. Eventually it emerges in German as “Kopfsalat” – which I am pretty sure means “lettuce” (literally “head salad”).  We are all quite tickled by this Chinese Whispers effect, and she spends much of the rest of the day speaking aloud in a language she has made up all by herself.

And to think they say the English aren’t good at foreign languages…

Posted in Personal life

East, West, Our Village Show’s Best

UNESCO World Heritage Site: cultural sites by ...
UNESCO World Heritage Sites (Image via Wikipedia)

2,300 miles in 4 weeks: that’s one way of summing our family holiday in France this year. For the first time in my life, I am in the fortunate position of being able to take 4 weeks off work. To make the most of it, we hit the road in our camper van.

Normally it’s a fortnight’s tour of Scotland, but as Laura always says “You don’t go to Scotland for the weather”. I’ve never been further south in France than Paris, so armed with a French atlas and a satnav, we hit the road.

We are not disappointed. Our scenic route from takes us through Picardy and Paris before trickling south alongside the Loire and the Rhone. A week’s tour of Provence includes extraordinary ancient Roman remains and UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Then it’s back up north via the Ardeche mountains and the Auvergne’s volcanoes. Sometimes things get surreal. Canoeing under an ancient Roman aqueduct, we find ourselves surrounded by French holidaymakers who have turned the riverbank into a beach. At Avignon, our campervan floor fills with Italian children contentedly drawing and colouring, while Laura goes off to play with her new French friend Sybillia. For a writer, the trip is a rich resource, and all the way I’m scribbling away in my notebook, banking ideas for withdrawal at home.

By the time we’re driving north, I’m saturated with new experiences – but for Laura, there’s just one thing on her mind. She shares it from the back seat.

“How many days till the Village Show, Mummy?”

“I’m just SO excited about the Village Show.”

“I can’t wait for it to be Show Day on Saturday.”

“I’m so glad we’re going to be home in time for the Show.”

And do you know what? I think she’s right. No matter how far we travel, I’m sure we’ll never find another sight to match the Hawkesbury Village Show. UNESCO, please take note.

(This post was originally written for the Hawkesbury Parish Magazine – September 2011 Village Show Special Edition!)

Posted in Travel

Reliving History in Northern France

La Coupole
La Coupole, the war museum near St Omer, France (Image by Charles D P Miller via Flickr)

Pottering southwards from Dunkerque on our French odyssey this summer, we take the opportunity to revisit a memorable tourist attraction near St Omer.

La Couple is a remarkable structure: a domed, semi-underground cavern that would serve well as a film set for the lair for a James Bond villain.  But it was the real life setting of a far greater horror.  It’s a Nazi military bunker, built to house and launch the revolutionary V2 bombs on London.

The museum has a particular significance for me.  The London suburb in which I spent my childhood was a target for V2 bombs. I remember my grandma telling me that the most frightening thing about them was when they went silent: that meant they were about to hit the ground.

My eight year old daughter Laura has just finished a school topic about World War II.  She and her classmates enjoyed it so much that they did not want the term to end.  We’re hoping the museum will complement her topic nicely, but I quickly realise that  its displays are more horrific than I had remembered.

Fortunately some of the significance goes over Laura’s head.  She laughs at the spectacle of a slide show projected on a pocked and pitted rough brick wall, thinking it makes a funny cinema screen.  It’s actually a reconstruction of a squad’s wall against which many French citizens met their death.  She looks askance at a coarse stripey suit in a glass case: it offends her developing sense of fashion.  I don’t want to explain that someone may have died in this suit: it’s the uniform of a concentration camp prisoner.

Watching films of French refugees heading south on foot, pushing sparse possessions in handcarts and wheelbarrows, I wonder what  it would have been like if we’d been part of that procession.  What would Laura have wanted to take with her? She’s not good at travelling light. Seven cuddly toys have somehow stowed away in the camper van this holiday, although I’d told her to bring only two.

Then I remember an assignment she did at school.  Her class had to plan what they’d have taken in their suitcases,had they been evacuees.  No doubt many of them will have included modern luxuries such as ipods and XBoxes.  Not so Laura.  She thoughtfully showed her favourite cuddly toy (so she’d have something to comfort her at night), a notebook and pen (in case she got bored), and her diabetes test kit.  She drew a neat and accurate illustration of the lancets, test strips and a blood glucose monitor that we use many times a day to manage her Type 1 diabetes.

I realise with a start that to be among those French refugees would almost certainly have sentenced Laura to death, not from Nazi atrocities, but from her diabetes. Her complex medical needs, such as refrigeration for her insulin, and supplies for her high-tech insulin pump, could never have been met on such a journey.

Suddenly Gordon and I find ourselves making excuses to leave the museum before  she is ready to go.  As we march across the car park back to the safety of our camper van, I hug my daughter a little tighter, patting the test kit in my handbag for reassurance.  La Coupole is indeed an extraordinary monument, but as it recedes into the shadows behind us, I do not for a moment glance back.

Posted in Family, Travel

A Matter of Convenience

la p'tite maîson ès danmes: un êcritchieau en ...
Image via Wikipedia

Inspecting the toilet on the ferry is part of Laura’s summer holiday ritual, so it’s  no surprise when, crossing from Dover to Dunkerque, she asks to visit the Ladies.

I’m not unsympathetic to my daughter’s fascination with public toilets.  I was just the same at her age.  And like her, I was a well-travelled child.  When I was 8, my parents gamely took me, my brother and sister on a trans-American road trip.  We drove from Philadelphia to Los Angeles in a fortnight, on a scenic route that memorably took in the Pennsylvania Dutch country, Mount Rushmore, the Great Lakes, Yellowstone Park, the Black Hills of Dakota and Las Vegas.  Whenever I see the famous giant letters spelling out HOLLYWOOD on those famous Californian hills, I still feel proprietorial.

It was on this trip that our family stayed in hotels for the first time.  To me, the new Holiday Inn chain seemed the height of glamour.  And the many diners and restaurants that we visited on route offered a multitude of lavatorial inspection opportunities.  Best of all was the one that included a perfume machine.  When you put a dime in the slot, 10 cents worth of Chanel Number 5 squirted onto your proffered wrist.  To my eight year old mind, life couldn’t get more sophisticated than that.

Laura’s first ferry trip came when she was just three weeks old, travelling on a passport in which her photo included a giant hand (mine) holding her tiny head erect.  Ever since that initiation eight years ago, she has been passionate about ferry travel, whether crossing the English Channel, island-hopping in Greece, or adding to her collection of Hebrides, Inner and Outer.

So, hand in hand, legs braced against the gentle summer swell of the ferry, we make our way towards the symbol for the ladies’ loo.  The raised ledge of at the entrance to each cubicle is a reminder of rougher crossings in which water may be sweeping across the floor.

As we enter the cubicle, a big red sign catches our eye.  Laura reads the text above a large downward arrow.

“No foreign bodies.”

She frowns.

“What does that mean?”

I hesitate.  It’s a good question.  What indeed does it mean?  Perhaps there should be some translations. We don’t want continental travellers inferring that our chosen (Danish) carrier, DFDS, is xenophobic.  Even armed with an English phrase book, our European neighbours could easily get the wrong end of the stick. In my mind, I anticipate possible mistranslations: “English evacuation only”, “Defense de pooer”etc.

Whatever its intention, the sign does not bother us.  After all, we’re not foreign bodies.  We’re British.  And now, our visit over, there is a corner of the English Channel that will be forever England.

Bemused, we emerge to wash our hands.  Above the sink, we find another sign entreating us to “Beware of sharp objects!”

We are startled  by this: we hadn’t noticed any such dangers on our way in.  I scan the room.  There are categorically no sharp objects to be seen.  The sink, the taps and the hand-drier all have beautifully rounded edges.  So what’s this sign in aid of?  Is it just a general warning for life?  A philosophical point to be borne in mind for future reference? They might as well have posted up a notice beseeching us “Do not run with scissors”, “Never ride a carousel while eating a lollipop”, or, that old favourite,  “Beware Greeks bearing gifts”.

For a moment I feel grateful to DFDS for caring so much about our well-being.

And though I don’t mention it to Laura,  I wonder what notices they’ve put in the Gents.